Official Luthiers Forum!

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I originally made my deck adjustable using 1/2" threaded rod with a threaded knob below and above the upper support. Works like a charm, but it's slow. I just have it adjusted for closing the soundbox now and throw a riser block below the radius dish now like Colin.

My point wasn't that it was easier, cheaper, etc., just that using a riser block under the work, rather than adjusting the height of the top of the deck, makes more sense to me.

It's quick to adjust, if say I'm making a uke, then just add an extra piece of ply under the dish. I'm a great fan of using the lowest tech that will get the job done. At my day job, I will use the University's Cray for a lot of my computation work, but sometimes it's overkill, when a pencil and the back of an envelope will get the job done. I don't like to over-think what should be a simple process.

Colin

_________________
I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Thanks, Miguel, I've ordered the things for £11.20. I'll let everyone know if they work or not!
Worst case, I've wasted a few pints down the pub.

And thanks, Colin, I may well have to resort to that but this way seems to make sense to me. Horses for courses, I guess. (Beautiful soundhole in your profile pic, btw! )

Jim: i think I basically did what Stew-Mac does on theirs (
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Jigs/i-4733.html). The pipe ends just butt up against the big washers. (The thing that's actually holding the deck together is threaded rods, washers, and nuts.). I've seen someone else who, instead of that, just screws pipe flanges to the corners of the boards (no threaded rods).

_________________
Kathy Matsushita
San Jose, CA USA
http://theamateurluthier.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kathy.matsushita